capella re
09-08-2009, 09:45 AM
i have been wanting to put a 13b in my rx2 at some stage so i thought i'd post some of the information found to help others that want to do it. please add to this if you know more or point out where mistakes are made.
Engine and Gearbox selection....
Ok you've got the vehicle, you'll need to find a suitable engine and gearbox. You have a few choices here. Buy an import motor if you can still find one, buy a second hand-engine, or buy a stuffed one and get it rebuilt, or rebuilt it yourself. I decided to buy a stuffed one and rebuild it. I found someone selling two rx5 13b engines for $1500 in the trading post, complete with all accessories. One he said ran good, the other with no compression in the front rotor, fair enough. Well I bought the engines got them home, bolted up a bell housing, starter motor, couple of jumper leads.... and performed a compression test on both engines. Ok you don't have a special rotary compression tester.. lets make one. I used a normal $40 heller compression tested, all you do is remove the one way valve from the end! (just like the one for your wheels) and hey presto.. you can now check the individual compression in all 3 chambers. Spray some wd40 in the exhaust ports to give the engine some internal lubrication. Well I checked the stuffed engine first and hey what do you know 120 psi in all 6 chambers!!! better than the one in my car... maybe this bloke doesn't know that rotaries have to be run at cranking speed to check compression. Hmm oh well checked the good one... hmmm :(... back rotor has very low compression 30 40 50 psi, front has 80 90 80.. not bad. This guy didn't know jack about these engines. I checked the apex seals on the back rotor through the exhaust port and found them to have very little spring tension, unlike the front rotor, and apon disassembling the engine found one apex seal spring had been eaten by the motor... yummm... the other 2 were just about flat!. Anyway bought new points, rotor, dizzy cap, plugs, overhauled the carby, on the other one, hooked it all up on the ground and started it up.... what do you know it runs beautiful...... so thats my motor. The clutch and pressure plate were perfect so I didn't buy a new one, just a new thrust bearing for about $20. The gearbox I used was a 121 item which has the good gear ratio's and also the good price tag of $200-$250 from the wreckers, compared to $350-$500 for an rx5 unit. Ok you need to purchase an rx5 bellhousing (approx. $80) and put it on the 121 gearbox. Thrust bearing and carrier are identical between the 121/rx5, and the clutch fork is the same exept the 121 fork has an extra piece on the end after where the slave cylinder stick goes in (for a spring) which will have to be removed if you want to use the 121 fork or else it will hit the transmission tunnel when mounted up top on the rotary bellhousing.
Getting the Engine to fit....
Ok ive got my rx5 13b and 121 5-speed bolted up and ready to drop in. The crossmember I'm using is the (standard for this vehicle) rx2 series 3 crossmember. This crossmember has several advantages over the other ones, in that it uses the front style mount (unlike the series 1/2), they are less rare than the series 4 AP front crossmember that bolts under the swaybay, and the also mount the engine much further (approx. 40-50mm) back in the engine bay which is good for handling, good for your 121 gearbox with its more forward stick, but bad for your sump.... read on.... After measuring up the standard forward mounted sump, I was planning to leave it and redrill the engine mounts 10-15mm further back to allow the forward sump to clear the series 3 crossmember. After spending a few hours swearing at my car it was decided that there is no way in the world you are going to get your 13b in with the original sump-forward position, it physically will not fit! no matter what.
*by the way you will need to do all the other body mods mentioned in the 12a conversion...slave cylinder...starter motor clearance..etc. In this model Rx2 I didn't have to modify the trans tunnel at all to fit starter motor, the tunnel was MUCH bigger. I beleive this was due to the fact that car was originally auto, or possibly because it is a series 3.
Ok heres how to do the real sump trick.
Ok pull the sump and pickup off. Alright we'll start with the pickup. Using an angle or bench grinder cut around the rim of the strainer, and remove the mesh from the pickup. Now you've just got the pipe with a big circle of sheet metal on the end. Cut down this metal until you have just a small 5mm ring around the pipe. Ok clean the pipe thoroughly now. Now grab the mesh and bend it over the end and past the 5mm ring. Use a suitable hose clamp to secure the mesh, and the 5mm ring will hole the hose clamp from falling off. I also used plenty of silicone on the protruding ends of the mesh to ensure no pieces fall off into the sump. Bolt it back onto the engine.
Now for the sump. I recommend if you don't have a second sump go and purchase one for around $20 when you buy your new gaskets, it makes the job that much easier. Ok grab the two sumps (if you don't have 2 or cant get another the new gasket can be used as a template) put them both facing different ways together. Grab 8 of the sump bolts and screw together the two sumps using four on each of the long sides. Ok the rest of the holes can be drilled out with a suitable sized drill bit (approx. 6.5mm). Separate the two sumps and test fit the sump to the engine. Mark where the pickup hits the sump, and using a steel hammer beat the sump until the sump clears the pickup and sits flush with the joint face, without the gasket installed. Now install the 8 sump bolts into the long sides and check and mark and modifications required to all the other holes. File out any holes that are not quite lined up and assemble the sump assembly with the new gasket and I use permatex hard setting on this gasket also.
*On the corner bolts where they are very close to the edge, I used allen key type bolts which give you extra clearance because you don't have to have room to get a socket around the head.
Ok this is going to be tight. I had to remove the Oil filter and adapter piece, plus the clutch master cylinder (or alternately carby, or all the choke mechanism off the firewall side of the carby). The engine should slide in without many hassles now.
The gearbox crossmember, transmission tunnel....
Use a trolley jack underneath the gearbox to raise it up to the floor level. Mark the tunnel where the gearstick will come out then lower the gearbox again. Using a small drill, drill a series of holes around where you previously marked and then use the drill to cut between the holes. To clean up the edge I used a grinding bit (small pink blob on stick) on the drill. The gearbox should now fit through the floorpan no problem. If the hole is too big for the rubber boot a suitable piece of sheet metal can be cut and attached to the rear of the hole. I cut a piece off an old bootlid I had lying about... perfect.
Now for the crossmember. You will need to buy some box steel. 50mm * 25mm (2*1 inch), 3mm thick and 560mm in length. Also two plates for the floor 74mm wide 8mm thick steel approx 130mm long. For these three pieces of new steel I payed the amazingly small price of $3.70, this stuff is dirt cheap. Ok the crossmember. Start with a 3mm (approx.) drill bit. For the gearbox mount, drill one hole 230mm from the end, and the next 280mm from the end. This second one should be in the centre of the crossmember, 280mm from each end. The two holes should be 50mm apart. Also drill 3mm holes in either end of the crossmember for mounting to the floor, approx 25mm from the end. Drill the 3mm holes all the way through both sides of the box steel. Ok now stepping up in size such as 6mm then 9mm and finally 12mm drill out the holes in one side of the crossmember only! You will need two 12mm*1.75pitch high tensile (black ones) about 1.5 inch long bolts and nuts to use to bolt the crossmember to the floor. Now turn the crossmember over and using a 25mm holesaw drill out the 3mm pilot holes to 25mm, enough room to get your socket onto the gearbox mount nuts. All done, some black paint and hey presto. The steel plates need to be drilled out to 10.5 mm and then tapped with a 12mm * 1.75pitch (or whatever bolt your using) tap, approx. in the centre of the plate. Bolt the new crossmember to the gearbox, and line up the gearbox in the centre of the tunnel, so the engine is sitting square in the engine bay and drill the two 12mm holes in the ends of the crossmember through the floorpan, then put in your 12mm bolts... finished!
The Tailshaft...
For a tailshaft I used a Capella 1600 one piece. After installing it in the car and measuring it up, if it was 35mm longer it would be bottomed out in the end of the gearbox, so leaving 10mm for lateral movement I had it lengthened by 25mm with new uni's installed. I ended up taking it to Hardy Spicer in Dandenong.. big mistake. Over the phone they quoted $140 but after driving there with the shaft one day later they changed their mind and said $180 or good bye... get someone else to do it! Ok so I got it done, new pipe 25mm longer, new uni's, the lot. Came back two days later to pick it up.... hmm sitting on the bench... looks like my original untouched tailshaft!!! Oh they said when I asked for it, we've been trying to contact you. We couldn't find anything wrong with the tube on the tailshaft, why did you want a new one!!! ahh idiots. 25mm longer I wanted!!... oh we didn't write that down. So another THREE days later again I finally get it back and im not real impressed with the workmanship at all. The front uni feels terrible! Have to wait for a roadtest. If you want one done go to G.J. drivelines, Keysborough rd Cheltenham for a quality job. Unfortunately they were closed over christmas when I wanted it done.
Finishing it off, how to have both a carburetor and clutch master cylinder.:)...
Hmm I like having a clutch, lets try and make the cylinder fit back on the firewall. Forget about a choke, all the extra's will have to be removed. Now if you remove the bracket for the Accelerator cable you should be able to install the Clutch Master Cylinder back on the firewall. If its the original one I recommend you turf it along with the slave cylinder, after 20 odd years these items tend to become unreliable. Go to Check Point or Repco and order...Cylinder Assy-Clutch Master JB1032... $80 retail, and Cylinder Assy-Clutch Slave JB4053... $45 retail.
Anyway the bracket for the accelerator cable is in two pieces, rivited together. Drill the rivets out (and yes there hardened steel so you can kiss this drill bit goodbye by the time your done :).....) and then bolt the bracket back on the carby. Screw the cable into the top half of the bracket and all you have to do is mark and redrill the two holes for the top piece of the bracket approx. 15mm towards the front of the car and angled slightly so the cable still faces the carby linkage. Use a couple of 4mm nuts and bolts to secure the two pieces. Also you may have to trim some of the metal off the brackets it they come close to any body parts.
The Radiator I had cleaned and also the top hose outlet modified so it came straight out of the radiator like the bottom one, and not angled down. I used rx4 type hoses purchased from mazda fitted perfectly without any modification, they are... Top Hose 1708 15 511.... $28 and Bottom hose 1708 15 521 $23 from the Mazda Dealer.
If your using the standard type air cleaner like I did, for a new filter buy a Ryco A31, should only cost you $12 from any auto shop.
The interior came without a rear parcel shelf, but I haven't seen many good ones so you may want to make your own like I have. I just bought a piece of 3-ply from the local hardware shop (total cost of $2!), marked out the shape and a few seconds later with the angle grinder and hmm new parcel shelf.... plus a few test fits and minor adjustments, a coating of black enamel, and some silastic to stop it moving. The car also came without any carpet, which I purchased from Tru-Fit (9792 2333) in Dandenong for $110.
To improve the overall apearance of the car I decided to purchase some re-chromed bumpers, and what a difference it makes. The front one was purchased for $140 change over and the rear three-piece costs $220. I went to Dandenong Bumper Bars (Ph. 9794 7530) for these items and am very impressed with the quality and finish of their bars, better than the factory job I think! This is the deepest looking chrome ive seen in a long time.
Here's some more pics at the stage its up to, oh and yes I forgot to say the battery is in the boot, otherwise the full air cleaner won't fit like this.
The New Engine!
Well the second hand engine lasted 6 months, and it was a touch smokey when you first started it, but cleared after after a short while, which Mazda say is normal. What happened was that coolant was leaking out of the radiator cap after going for a drive. I replaced the radiator cap with a new one as it is quite common for radiator caps to go, causing the same coolant loss problem. Unfortunately the problem persisted and apon removing the spark plugs, I found traces of bright green glycol on the front chambers leading spark plug. Definately time for a rebuild. Before removing the engine, I reccommend performing a compression test, which I did..... all 6 chambers @ 110 P.S.I.... absolutely perfect still. At least I know now, what im fixing.... water leak into the front rotor, and also the smoke on initial startup problem. Well the engine was removed and dismantled.... Good news. The Rotor Housings were absolutely Perfect.... explaining the still perfect compression, and perfect running of the engine. The O-rings were obviosly not perfect, and require replacement anyway on engine dissasembly. The Rotor Housings were cleaned and inspected, and were in excellent condition, with perfect chrome and no corrosion. The Rotors too measured up perfectly, all clearances and dimensions were spot on. The side plates had the usual amount of wear, and were promptly taken to Interbrown Rotary Performance for Machining and checking. The plates came back looking like new, the were then painted gloss black, and all the welch plugs were replaced with new ones. The front and rear plates are also now Extend ported for a bit more 'kick' when the secondary's come in. A new gasket and o-ring set was ordered, as well as new O-rings for the Rotor Oil Seals, to fix the oil leaking into the combustion chambers when the engine is stopped, causing smoke on startup. After much cleaning and checking, the engine was then re-assembled, the endplay adjusted to 0.04mm, and all accessories bolted on. The engine went back into the engine bay with minimal fuss, although I had to remove the carby until the engine was sitting on the mounts, as there's not much clearance around the engine :). The engine started, no problems.... runs beautiful, does not smoke at all on startup, and seals perfectly. I am very happy with the new engine.
THANKS TO MAZRX5 OFF AUSROTARY FOR THIS INFO-CHECK OUT THIS LINK FOR MORE ROTARY INFO FROM HIM http://www.geocities.com/mazdarx00/
Engine and Gearbox selection....
Ok you've got the vehicle, you'll need to find a suitable engine and gearbox. You have a few choices here. Buy an import motor if you can still find one, buy a second hand-engine, or buy a stuffed one and get it rebuilt, or rebuilt it yourself. I decided to buy a stuffed one and rebuild it. I found someone selling two rx5 13b engines for $1500 in the trading post, complete with all accessories. One he said ran good, the other with no compression in the front rotor, fair enough. Well I bought the engines got them home, bolted up a bell housing, starter motor, couple of jumper leads.... and performed a compression test on both engines. Ok you don't have a special rotary compression tester.. lets make one. I used a normal $40 heller compression tested, all you do is remove the one way valve from the end! (just like the one for your wheels) and hey presto.. you can now check the individual compression in all 3 chambers. Spray some wd40 in the exhaust ports to give the engine some internal lubrication. Well I checked the stuffed engine first and hey what do you know 120 psi in all 6 chambers!!! better than the one in my car... maybe this bloke doesn't know that rotaries have to be run at cranking speed to check compression. Hmm oh well checked the good one... hmmm :(... back rotor has very low compression 30 40 50 psi, front has 80 90 80.. not bad. This guy didn't know jack about these engines. I checked the apex seals on the back rotor through the exhaust port and found them to have very little spring tension, unlike the front rotor, and apon disassembling the engine found one apex seal spring had been eaten by the motor... yummm... the other 2 were just about flat!. Anyway bought new points, rotor, dizzy cap, plugs, overhauled the carby, on the other one, hooked it all up on the ground and started it up.... what do you know it runs beautiful...... so thats my motor. The clutch and pressure plate were perfect so I didn't buy a new one, just a new thrust bearing for about $20. The gearbox I used was a 121 item which has the good gear ratio's and also the good price tag of $200-$250 from the wreckers, compared to $350-$500 for an rx5 unit. Ok you need to purchase an rx5 bellhousing (approx. $80) and put it on the 121 gearbox. Thrust bearing and carrier are identical between the 121/rx5, and the clutch fork is the same exept the 121 fork has an extra piece on the end after where the slave cylinder stick goes in (for a spring) which will have to be removed if you want to use the 121 fork or else it will hit the transmission tunnel when mounted up top on the rotary bellhousing.
Getting the Engine to fit....
Ok ive got my rx5 13b and 121 5-speed bolted up and ready to drop in. The crossmember I'm using is the (standard for this vehicle) rx2 series 3 crossmember. This crossmember has several advantages over the other ones, in that it uses the front style mount (unlike the series 1/2), they are less rare than the series 4 AP front crossmember that bolts under the swaybay, and the also mount the engine much further (approx. 40-50mm) back in the engine bay which is good for handling, good for your 121 gearbox with its more forward stick, but bad for your sump.... read on.... After measuring up the standard forward mounted sump, I was planning to leave it and redrill the engine mounts 10-15mm further back to allow the forward sump to clear the series 3 crossmember. After spending a few hours swearing at my car it was decided that there is no way in the world you are going to get your 13b in with the original sump-forward position, it physically will not fit! no matter what.
*by the way you will need to do all the other body mods mentioned in the 12a conversion...slave cylinder...starter motor clearance..etc. In this model Rx2 I didn't have to modify the trans tunnel at all to fit starter motor, the tunnel was MUCH bigger. I beleive this was due to the fact that car was originally auto, or possibly because it is a series 3.
Ok heres how to do the real sump trick.
Ok pull the sump and pickup off. Alright we'll start with the pickup. Using an angle or bench grinder cut around the rim of the strainer, and remove the mesh from the pickup. Now you've just got the pipe with a big circle of sheet metal on the end. Cut down this metal until you have just a small 5mm ring around the pipe. Ok clean the pipe thoroughly now. Now grab the mesh and bend it over the end and past the 5mm ring. Use a suitable hose clamp to secure the mesh, and the 5mm ring will hole the hose clamp from falling off. I also used plenty of silicone on the protruding ends of the mesh to ensure no pieces fall off into the sump. Bolt it back onto the engine.
Now for the sump. I recommend if you don't have a second sump go and purchase one for around $20 when you buy your new gaskets, it makes the job that much easier. Ok grab the two sumps (if you don't have 2 or cant get another the new gasket can be used as a template) put them both facing different ways together. Grab 8 of the sump bolts and screw together the two sumps using four on each of the long sides. Ok the rest of the holes can be drilled out with a suitable sized drill bit (approx. 6.5mm). Separate the two sumps and test fit the sump to the engine. Mark where the pickup hits the sump, and using a steel hammer beat the sump until the sump clears the pickup and sits flush with the joint face, without the gasket installed. Now install the 8 sump bolts into the long sides and check and mark and modifications required to all the other holes. File out any holes that are not quite lined up and assemble the sump assembly with the new gasket and I use permatex hard setting on this gasket also.
*On the corner bolts where they are very close to the edge, I used allen key type bolts which give you extra clearance because you don't have to have room to get a socket around the head.
Ok this is going to be tight. I had to remove the Oil filter and adapter piece, plus the clutch master cylinder (or alternately carby, or all the choke mechanism off the firewall side of the carby). The engine should slide in without many hassles now.
The gearbox crossmember, transmission tunnel....
Use a trolley jack underneath the gearbox to raise it up to the floor level. Mark the tunnel where the gearstick will come out then lower the gearbox again. Using a small drill, drill a series of holes around where you previously marked and then use the drill to cut between the holes. To clean up the edge I used a grinding bit (small pink blob on stick) on the drill. The gearbox should now fit through the floorpan no problem. If the hole is too big for the rubber boot a suitable piece of sheet metal can be cut and attached to the rear of the hole. I cut a piece off an old bootlid I had lying about... perfect.
Now for the crossmember. You will need to buy some box steel. 50mm * 25mm (2*1 inch), 3mm thick and 560mm in length. Also two plates for the floor 74mm wide 8mm thick steel approx 130mm long. For these three pieces of new steel I payed the amazingly small price of $3.70, this stuff is dirt cheap. Ok the crossmember. Start with a 3mm (approx.) drill bit. For the gearbox mount, drill one hole 230mm from the end, and the next 280mm from the end. This second one should be in the centre of the crossmember, 280mm from each end. The two holes should be 50mm apart. Also drill 3mm holes in either end of the crossmember for mounting to the floor, approx 25mm from the end. Drill the 3mm holes all the way through both sides of the box steel. Ok now stepping up in size such as 6mm then 9mm and finally 12mm drill out the holes in one side of the crossmember only! You will need two 12mm*1.75pitch high tensile (black ones) about 1.5 inch long bolts and nuts to use to bolt the crossmember to the floor. Now turn the crossmember over and using a 25mm holesaw drill out the 3mm pilot holes to 25mm, enough room to get your socket onto the gearbox mount nuts. All done, some black paint and hey presto. The steel plates need to be drilled out to 10.5 mm and then tapped with a 12mm * 1.75pitch (or whatever bolt your using) tap, approx. in the centre of the plate. Bolt the new crossmember to the gearbox, and line up the gearbox in the centre of the tunnel, so the engine is sitting square in the engine bay and drill the two 12mm holes in the ends of the crossmember through the floorpan, then put in your 12mm bolts... finished!
The Tailshaft...
For a tailshaft I used a Capella 1600 one piece. After installing it in the car and measuring it up, if it was 35mm longer it would be bottomed out in the end of the gearbox, so leaving 10mm for lateral movement I had it lengthened by 25mm with new uni's installed. I ended up taking it to Hardy Spicer in Dandenong.. big mistake. Over the phone they quoted $140 but after driving there with the shaft one day later they changed their mind and said $180 or good bye... get someone else to do it! Ok so I got it done, new pipe 25mm longer, new uni's, the lot. Came back two days later to pick it up.... hmm sitting on the bench... looks like my original untouched tailshaft!!! Oh they said when I asked for it, we've been trying to contact you. We couldn't find anything wrong with the tube on the tailshaft, why did you want a new one!!! ahh idiots. 25mm longer I wanted!!... oh we didn't write that down. So another THREE days later again I finally get it back and im not real impressed with the workmanship at all. The front uni feels terrible! Have to wait for a roadtest. If you want one done go to G.J. drivelines, Keysborough rd Cheltenham for a quality job. Unfortunately they were closed over christmas when I wanted it done.
Finishing it off, how to have both a carburetor and clutch master cylinder.:)...
Hmm I like having a clutch, lets try and make the cylinder fit back on the firewall. Forget about a choke, all the extra's will have to be removed. Now if you remove the bracket for the Accelerator cable you should be able to install the Clutch Master Cylinder back on the firewall. If its the original one I recommend you turf it along with the slave cylinder, after 20 odd years these items tend to become unreliable. Go to Check Point or Repco and order...Cylinder Assy-Clutch Master JB1032... $80 retail, and Cylinder Assy-Clutch Slave JB4053... $45 retail.
Anyway the bracket for the accelerator cable is in two pieces, rivited together. Drill the rivets out (and yes there hardened steel so you can kiss this drill bit goodbye by the time your done :).....) and then bolt the bracket back on the carby. Screw the cable into the top half of the bracket and all you have to do is mark and redrill the two holes for the top piece of the bracket approx. 15mm towards the front of the car and angled slightly so the cable still faces the carby linkage. Use a couple of 4mm nuts and bolts to secure the two pieces. Also you may have to trim some of the metal off the brackets it they come close to any body parts.
The Radiator I had cleaned and also the top hose outlet modified so it came straight out of the radiator like the bottom one, and not angled down. I used rx4 type hoses purchased from mazda fitted perfectly without any modification, they are... Top Hose 1708 15 511.... $28 and Bottom hose 1708 15 521 $23 from the Mazda Dealer.
If your using the standard type air cleaner like I did, for a new filter buy a Ryco A31, should only cost you $12 from any auto shop.
The interior came without a rear parcel shelf, but I haven't seen many good ones so you may want to make your own like I have. I just bought a piece of 3-ply from the local hardware shop (total cost of $2!), marked out the shape and a few seconds later with the angle grinder and hmm new parcel shelf.... plus a few test fits and minor adjustments, a coating of black enamel, and some silastic to stop it moving. The car also came without any carpet, which I purchased from Tru-Fit (9792 2333) in Dandenong for $110.
To improve the overall apearance of the car I decided to purchase some re-chromed bumpers, and what a difference it makes. The front one was purchased for $140 change over and the rear three-piece costs $220. I went to Dandenong Bumper Bars (Ph. 9794 7530) for these items and am very impressed with the quality and finish of their bars, better than the factory job I think! This is the deepest looking chrome ive seen in a long time.
Here's some more pics at the stage its up to, oh and yes I forgot to say the battery is in the boot, otherwise the full air cleaner won't fit like this.
The New Engine!
Well the second hand engine lasted 6 months, and it was a touch smokey when you first started it, but cleared after after a short while, which Mazda say is normal. What happened was that coolant was leaking out of the radiator cap after going for a drive. I replaced the radiator cap with a new one as it is quite common for radiator caps to go, causing the same coolant loss problem. Unfortunately the problem persisted and apon removing the spark plugs, I found traces of bright green glycol on the front chambers leading spark plug. Definately time for a rebuild. Before removing the engine, I reccommend performing a compression test, which I did..... all 6 chambers @ 110 P.S.I.... absolutely perfect still. At least I know now, what im fixing.... water leak into the front rotor, and also the smoke on initial startup problem. Well the engine was removed and dismantled.... Good news. The Rotor Housings were absolutely Perfect.... explaining the still perfect compression, and perfect running of the engine. The O-rings were obviosly not perfect, and require replacement anyway on engine dissasembly. The Rotor Housings were cleaned and inspected, and were in excellent condition, with perfect chrome and no corrosion. The Rotors too measured up perfectly, all clearances and dimensions were spot on. The side plates had the usual amount of wear, and were promptly taken to Interbrown Rotary Performance for Machining and checking. The plates came back looking like new, the were then painted gloss black, and all the welch plugs were replaced with new ones. The front and rear plates are also now Extend ported for a bit more 'kick' when the secondary's come in. A new gasket and o-ring set was ordered, as well as new O-rings for the Rotor Oil Seals, to fix the oil leaking into the combustion chambers when the engine is stopped, causing smoke on startup. After much cleaning and checking, the engine was then re-assembled, the endplay adjusted to 0.04mm, and all accessories bolted on. The engine went back into the engine bay with minimal fuss, although I had to remove the carby until the engine was sitting on the mounts, as there's not much clearance around the engine :). The engine started, no problems.... runs beautiful, does not smoke at all on startup, and seals perfectly. I am very happy with the new engine.
THANKS TO MAZRX5 OFF AUSROTARY FOR THIS INFO-CHECK OUT THIS LINK FOR MORE ROTARY INFO FROM HIM http://www.geocities.com/mazdarx00/