FD3S Suspension for RACE

[Hyperdrive3d]

Hi everyone,

Im venturing out into the bigger world and im buying a race-only FD to take out on the track. Ive done some track work before in my series 3 rx7 but as you would guess there are worlds of difference between the new and old rx7s.

Im looking for your thoughts as to which suspension components to get. So if you've had a good setup or can recommend some good components then please post it here as im open to any recommendation.

Need recommendations on:
Coilovers, Swaybars, Strutbars and generally anything to do with suspension.

Thanks, Jason...

[gotorx7]

fdrx7.com has the answers to all your questions ;)

[Hyperdrive3d]

fdrx7.com has the answers to all your questions ;)

Yeah, i heard you had to prove you own an FD before you could join though... I'll have another look...

[FDTRX7]

Yo

Suspension wise, a lot of people recommend TIEN on the FDs.
They're quality, but expensive. They're also a Twin-Tube Damper.

I've checked out the HSD Mono-Tubes and they don't actually seem that bad, although they're a little stiffer on the ride, there's less of a chance they'll mix the oil with the gas.

Hit up Car Toys in Thebby, the guy I spoke to was willing to throw a set on my street FD cheap if he could use it for a "Customer Car" setup. He might sponsor you if you wanna take it a little serious racing it :)

[Hyperdrive3d]

Yo

Suspension wise, a lot of people recommend TIEN on the FDs.
They're quality, but expensive. They're also a Twin-Tube Damper.

I've checked out the HSD Mono-Tubes and they don't actually seem that bad, although they're a little stiffer on the ride, there's less of a chance they'll mix the oil with the gas.

Hit up Car Toys in Thebby, the guy I spoke to was willing to throw a set on my street FD cheap if he could use it for a "Customer Car" setup. He might sponsor you if you wanna take it a little serious racing it :)

Cheers mate, Im getting the car imported as race only and sponsors will be required further down the track so i will have a chat to them...

[capella re]

i don't really have any advice as my suspension is standard, but im sure ownage would agree even standard they handle like a motherf^&er!! i'd suggest that if your buying race only (especially if your importing) you'd beable to find an fd with already all the extra fruits and at half the cost of doing it here. hell of alot cheaper making geometry adjustmentments and tweaks on something with coilovers and bush kits than it is doing it yourself and spending the next 6 months towing it around to get parts fitted (unless you have a 20 tonne press for some of the bushes)
look at me, a month on and i still havent even bought the bushes yet!!
goodluck with it though, you'll love it. still havent wiped the smile off my face after buying mine 6 months ago.

[Super-Mini]

I'd have the series 3 for track and the FD for street

[vortex]

Yeah, i heard you had to prove you own an FD before you could join though... I'll have another look...
No, you can join before you have a car - what you're thinking is Verification. That just gives you access to a couple of extra spots on the site etc.

Besides, I know you and have met you - Me, Iggy, Jesse all know you so verification wouldn't be a problem once you have the car :)

[vortex]

Hi everyone,

Im venturing out into the bigger world and im buying a race-only FD to take out on the track. Ive done some track work before in my series 3 rx7 but as you would guess there are worlds of difference between the new and old rx7s.

Im looking for your thoughts as to which suspension components to get. So if you've had a good setup or can recommend some good components then please post it here as im open to any recommendation.

Need recommendations on:
Coilovers, Swaybars, Strutbars and generally anything to do with suspension.

Well, here come the reccomendations :)

With my FD I have Tein Flex coilovers on the car - these a compromise between streetability and racetrack coilovers, but having said that they are really good on the track as well. Good enough for a flat 1:20 around 'lala. For a real race car, you probably want something a bit better with independantly adjustable bump and rebound. These have height adjust independant of the spring perch which is what you want - don't be fooled by other 'adjustables' that say they allow the ride height to be adjusted, but only by moving the spring perch. This affects the spring preload and the actual shock travel as well - two things you need to have control over when you're setting up suspension for maximum performance. Ohlins do a good set with the price to match - but when I do mine I will likely be importing a set of Tein Super Race coilovers and a few sets of springs so I can play with the spring settings. Especially with the way the Aussie dollar is now v's the US dollar, importing yourself (and avoiding local stores more concerned about 'bling' who have no idea about setting up a race car) has never been easier.

I also have the Racing Beat swaybars on the front and rear of the car, these are a fantastic upgrade as well. If you got his route, make sure you get the Racing Beat strut-bar brace as this really stiffens the front of the car up and makes it a bit more pointy into the corners, Can't hesitate to stress this is totally worth the money :) Once again, the street level bars are good starting point, but they also do a stiffer front tubular bar which is aimed more at the track, this is a good bit of kit as well, up to you which way you go here.

Strut bars are a no-brainer of course - plenty of them around and easy to find for the front, same deal with the rears more or less. Not sure if any particular items are better than others - i have Mazdaspeed strutbar braces on my car which are nice, but not easy to find (though I can htink of one set for sale right now in the USA come to think of it).

Also, don't forget your bushings. If your car is track-only, then don't mess about. Go straight for solid bushings, solid diff mounts and solid engine mounts. These will increase the NVH of course but it's a track car so it doesn't matter, right? :P

I assume you'll also be stripping the car and caging it? Budget around $3500 for a full cage - but the major benefit of this is that it will add a LOT of stiffness to the chassis and add grip (in theory).

Who are you going to buy the car from? I'm on the lookout for a race/rally FD at the moment actually - the budget required for the base car seems to be around $8 - $10k complete, rollers or shells less than this of course.

Get on over to fdrx7.com, everything you need is there - heaps of guys there who've done exactly what you're planning to do :)

[MR-RX3]

mate id have 2 agree with two guys sayin jump on fdrx7.com as for joinin up i dnt own a fd was lookin in2 buyin 1 awhile bac but i bought my 2nd fc,...fc an fd are very similar not by lookin at them but loads of parts u can inter change,...another site 2 consider would be rhdjapan.com they are bloody expensive :( but u will find all d fruit u will need 2 make a serious track car , frm sway bars 2 rosejointed tie rod ends camber diff links :) ,strut braces , floor braces, it hav 2 b 1 of d best sites around for jap parts but find d parts u want an do ya reasearch if u are 2 buy them rhdjapan charge like wounded bulls, u hav 2 sell ya left an right testicle to get all the fruit ...so shop around ...or even better find out when the nxt time attack on run by the evo gsr club :) heck there 6 or 8 track rx7 out there mate ,...go hav a yarn with them ,they are all chilled guys i took my 7 out there last time an they gav me alot of help ful info...

[vortex]

Shipping is the killer from RHD, but still when i ordered my Exedy carbon clutch from them it was only $300 or something - for that it's pretty good.

Other stuff isn't cheap though, and of course bodykits etc are all bulky so they charge a pile for shipping those kinds of things :)

[Hyperdrive3d]

Well, here come the reccomendations :)


Thanks heaps, very helpful and i will check the racing beat website...

Im going through Iron Chef Imports and bugeting on 11k to get the car here and doing it up slowly. got a list of 40 cars today within the budget.

[vortex]

Thanks heaps, very helpful and i will check the racing beat website...

Im going through Iron Chef Imports and bugeting on 11k to get the car here and doing it up slowly. got a list of 40 cars today within the budget.
I'm not sure if Kristian is interested in importing Race/Rally cars, as I asked him previously and he basically told me to look elsewhere. It also requires the importer to have a CAMS competition licence as well, so keep that in mind too. He may not have the required licence for it.

IMO if you don't really care about colour, there's always some for sale in Australia. Give Jas from REVS a call, he was telling me about a roller in SA with a lot of goodies on it for around 10k just a couple of weeks ago.

[Hyperdrive3d]

Im basically getting a stockie(minor mods) and not complying it so that i can mod it up the way i want...

[vortex]

For a car that's $11k landed it'll probably be an Efini (Series 6 or 7), which can't be complied - unless it's a personal import :)

Race/Rally import laws still apply, and part of the requirements is a CAMS competition licence (not L2S) requirement for the importer :)

[yelloS2Rx7]

Whatever u do don't get oz spec TIEN!!
Don't be put off goin to a more hard core unit, ride is all in setup and adjustment
I installed TIEN winding spec drift masters in a Soarer and retained beautiful ride!!
I like Aragosta Coilovers, Autoexe chassis/strut bracing look PIMP!!
As per importing ya own car, I'd be lookin for as many quality mods as possible!!!
Contact workshops like FEED, RE-Am, knightsports see if they have anything collecting dust..
Ex race-demo/drift cars??
Or find a straight bare shell costing as little as poss!!!!
Worst thing I ever did was buy a nice car to start with...when I changed absolutely everything except the glass, bumpers and dash, doors and roof
a bare shell woulda saved heaps of cash!!!!!!
Wheels(width&offset)& tyres are the most important thing!!!
Depending on what tyres semis/full slicks etc u intend to run, determins spring rates!!!!
Then u setup whole car around tyres!!!

[Hyperdrive3d]

cheers, always good to get others opinions...

unfortunately with jap auctions you either get something straight and pay or risk it on something thats been repaired(which could cost you in the long-run) so im looking and researching...

[vortex]

cheers, always good to get others opinions...

unfortunately with jap auctions you either get something straight and pay or risk it on something thats been repaired(which could cost you in the long-run) so im looking and researching...
Pretty much why I'll only buy one that's already here - unless I can get it inspected VERY well prior to purchase which basically excludes buying from Auction.

Also check out sites like Goo-net http://exchange.goo-net.com/ (no it's not a porn site) and http://total7.jp for more cars. Also, I have read that J Spec Imports (http://www.j-spec.com.au/) offer a service for inspection of a car prior to purchase in Japan from a yard or wholesaler, this might be worth some research as well. Make sure you look for Efini RX-7's, these are the S6/S7 cars so they're instantly cheaper because they have less appeal for import to Australia for road-use. S8's instantly fetch higher prices because they're lower mileage and can be registered for road-use here - but don't be tempted. Cost cutting on them resulted in a car that doesn't last as well as the S6/7s.

[capella re]

S8's instantly fetch higher prices because they're lower mileage and can be registered for road-use here - but don't be tempted. Cost cutting on them resulted in a car that doesn't last as well as the S6/7s.

Series 8 (January 1999– August 2002) was the final series, and was only available in the Japanese market. More efficient turbochargers were installed, while improved intercooling and radiator cooling was made possible by a revised frontal area. The seats, steering wheel, and front and rear lights were all changed. The rear spoiler was modified and gained adjustability. The top-of-the-line "Type RS" came equipped with a Bilstein suspension and 17" wheels as standard equipment, and reduced weight to 1,280 kg (2,822 lb). Power was 280 PS (206 kW; 276 hp) with 313.8 N·m (231 ft·lbf) of torque as per the maximum Japanese limit. The very limited edition Type RZ version included all the features of the Type RS, but at a lighter weight (at 1270 kg). It also featured custom gun-metal colored BBS wheels and a custom red racing themed interior. Further upgrades included a new 16-bit ECU and ABS system upgrades. The improved ABS system worked by braking differently on each wheel, allowing the car better turning during braking. The effective result made for safer driving for the average buyer. Easily the most collectible of all the RX-7s was the last 1,500 run-out specials. Dubbed the "Spirit R", they combined all the "extra" features Mazda had used on previous limited-run specials plus new exclusive features. They still command amazing prices on the Japanese used car scene years later. Sticker prices when new were 3,998,000 yen for Type-A and B and 3,398,000 yen for Type-C. Mazda's press release said "The Type-A Spirit R model is the ultimate RX-7, boasting the most outstanding driving performance in its history."



don't know about you but sounds pretty tempting!!!!!!!!!!

[vortex]

For a race car, it's a waste :) All those 'upgraded' S8 parts mean nothing on the track when they'll be replaced with parts that are a lot better :)

[Hyperdrive3d]

iggy sent me a youtube link last night which was an option vid about rx7 legends... it basically said that 92 - 95 were "Kouki" models and 96 - 2002 were "Zenki" models. Zenki models were much improved over the Kouki models due to the 16-bit computer and new suspension configurations.

going on that i will be aiming for something 1996 or later...

[capella re]

sorry james, i posted it purely to wind you up. i know the s8 was a runout model and it sacrifices reliability for those few extra ponies (hence why so many series 8's, such as mine come with a rebuilt motor)
i still think if jasons going for a good condition near standard one he should at least reconsider one that if he wanted to register it and sell as a street/track car he could (even though currently his funds may only allow for a race only)
realistically jason, james has minor mods and can run a 1.20 and drive it home, yet still sell it at a top dollar rate. i think unless your getting an ex drifter or track car with most of the mods already done (making rego impossible anyway) and sacrificing cosmetics (bit of body damage) your mad!!!
in the long run buying a nice clean fd (with the possibility of crashing it your first run) and slowly modding it, will cost you a fortune.
i know you would have considered all this already but i had to at least say it for your benefit.

[vortex]

iggy sent me a youtube link last night which was an option vid about rx7 legends... it basically said that 92 - 95 were "Kouki" models and 96 - 2002 were "Zenki" models. Zenki models were much improved over the Kouki models due to the 16-bit computer and new suspension configurations.

going on that i will be aiming for something 1996 or later...

Basically, yes. But, consider how far you will take the car. It really only matters if you're keeping the car stock and not doing major upgrades like you will be on even a semi-serious race car.
The ECU thing isn't as big of a deal as you think, and in either case the suspension would be one of the first items going in the bin :)

Keep in mind that from the very first FD to the very last - ALL the chassis are identical and the only differences are the bolt on bits.

[Hyperdrive3d]

Basically, yes. But, consider how far you will take the car. It really only matters if you're keeping the car stock and not doing major upgrades like you will be on even a semi-serious race car.
The ECU thing isn't as big of a deal as you think, and in either case the suspension would be one of the first items going in the bin :)

Keep in mind that from the very first FD to the very last - ALL the chassis are identical and the only differences are the bolt on bits.

That is true...

I guess i am looking at it in the way that i want a reliable car to use straight off the ship until i get more funds to mod it up...

I guess everyone i know has newer FD's and they are always saying about the flaws in the old ones, such as ECU, suspension and overheating problems...

[vortex]

That is true...

I guess i am looking at it in the way that i want a reliable car to use straight off the ship until i get more funds to mod it up...

I guess everyone i know has newer FD's and they are always saying about the flaws in the old ones, such as ECU, suspension and overheating problems...

LOL! Someone has been feeding you BS :)
ECU: 8bit v's 16bit means nothing. Get the right ECU for the car and there is no difference at the end of the day. Only possible different would be the ABS, and believe me the ABS on the S6/7 is so good anyway you probably wouldn't notice the difference.
Suspension: Yes this is sightly upgraded on some Series 8 models, but realistically it's all just as crap as the S6/7.
Overheating: All FD's, Series 8's included, get warm - some Series 8's had a copper core radiator, but realistically it's another item that literally goes straight in the bin. Alu radiators are cheap and reliable and improve cooling.

It's a common thing for a Series 8 motor to die from water-seal failure between 30,000 and 60,000 kms old. It doesn't seem to happen in the older motors as much - but it does happen.

The S8's also have different oil injectors to the earlier motors as well, and these commonly fail as well leading to premature apex seal failure. Premixing helps get past this.

[Hyperdrive3d]

Series 8 (January 1999– August 2002) was the final series, and was only available in the Japanese market. More efficient turbochargers were installed, while improved intercooling and radiator cooling was made possible by a revised frontal area. The seats, steering wheel, and front and rear lights were all changed. The rear spoiler was modified and gained adjustability. The top-of-the-line "Type RS" came equipped with a Bilstein suspension and 17" wheels as standard equipment, and reduced weight to 1,280 kg (2,822 lb). Power was 280 PS (206 kW; 276 hp) with 313.8 N·m (231 ft·lbf) of torque as per the maximum Japanese limit. The very limited edition Type RZ version included all the features of the Type RS, but at a lighter weight (at 1270 kg). It also featured custom gun-metal colored BBS wheels and a custom red racing themed interior. Further upgrades included a new 16-bit ECU and ABS system upgrades. The improved ABS system worked by braking differently on each wheel, allowing the car better turning during braking. The effective result made for safer driving for the average buyer. Easily the most collectible of all the RX-7s was the last 1,500 run-out specials. Dubbed the "Spirit R", they combined all the "extra" features Mazda had used on previous limited-run specials plus new exclusive features. They still command amazing prices on the Japanese used car scene years later. Sticker prices when new were 3,998,000 yen for Type-A and B and 3,398,000 yen for Type-C. Mazda's press release said "The Type-A Spirit R model is the ultimate RX-7, boasting the most outstanding driving performance in its history."



don't know about you but sounds pretty tempting!!!!!!!!!!


You been on Wiki... i read that when i started looking for FDs...

[Hyperdrive3d]

Hey guys, cheers for all your help...

I ended up getting a 1997 series 7 type RS in very good condition for an amazingly low price, its got the following things already on it...

AVS 17" rims with good rubber
Cusco susprension(not sure if coilovers)
HKS exhaust
Greddy turbo timer and boost gauge
Upgraded brake rotors all round(would say they are slotted or drillled)
Aftermarket steering wheel and gear knob
Aftermarket brake hoses/lines
Aftermarket ignition leads
Aftermarket TV and stereo(not that i want that but hey)

Jason

http://users.picknowl.com.au/~aussie_skip/auction/black97rs(2).jpg

[vortex]

Wow, that was quick! Who did you get it through and how much did you pay?:) PM I ok, I'm looking for one too as you know :)

[Super-Mini]

congratulations on the purchase :)

[Hyperdrive3d]

Thankyou, i think i did very well for myself considering i got it from auction for 545,000 Yen.

[vortex]

Nice one, works out to about $6800 - was that the FOB price?

[Hyperdrive3d]

not too sure... waiting to get all the payment details through...

[Super-Mini]

how much is the shipping these days, last time i looked into it was going to cost about 3k i think.

[yelloS2Rx7]

keep us posted how much it all costs landed!!!
and that car is able to be registered?????
startin to sound very tempting......

[vortex]

and that car is able to be registered?????
startin to sound very tempting......

No it can't be registered. Race/Rally only.

[Hyperdrive3d]

it can be registered but i've desided not to for various reasons. the way i see it if your going to have a car to race then make it do just that... road rules here in SA are too strict, last thing i want to do is reg it and have it defected soon after...

[gotorx7]

No it can't be registered. Race/Rally only.

Don't you need to have a full CAMS license to bring in a Race/Rally car?

[vortex]

it can be registered but i've desided not to for various reasons. the way i see it if your going to have a car to race then make it do just that... road rules here in SA are too strict, last thing i want to do is reg it and have it defected soon after...

If it's really a 1997 Series 7 - probably version 4 FD, then no it CAN'T be registered - unless it's a personal import. And it's not a personal import...

[vortex]

Don't you need to have a full CAMS license to bring in a Race/Rally car?
Funny you mention it. I read you needed a C3 licence which is a full circuit racing licence (which costs over $800 to get) - so I emailed DOTARS about it and asked if you can get import approval with an L2S - stating the car would only be used in motorsport at that level.

DOTARS themselves replied and said it wouldn't be a problem, provided I could prove past competition with that licence grade.

[Hyperdrive3d]

Just got photos through today of the car in the jap docks...

here they are, http://users.picknowl.com.au/~aussie_skip/auction/FD/

seems to have some added goodies which i did not get told about :quagmire:

[capella re]

god, ya gotta be happy with that jase. shame ya low fuel lights on, thats just rude!!! fair few goodies and looks really clean, i wanted those rims in 19's on my fd, bastard!!! i bet you do nothing but stare at slide shows of all those pics, id be pumped

[vortex]

Pretty sure that's a MazdaSpeed rear wing on the car, Fairly expensive for one of them :) Series 8 lights aren't cheap - they're on there too, Wheel is re-useable. Coilovers will need a cleanup but hopefully they're a reasonable brand and rebuildable.

It could even have the SP/RZ/RS braked on it too. I have the same wheels on my FD and they don't look that big (and I definately have the smaller brakes).

Car looks good, overall!

[Hyperdrive3d]

god, ya gotta be happy with that jase. shame ya low fuel lights on, thats just rude!!! fair few goodies and looks really clean, i wanted those rims in 19's on my fd, bastard!!! i bet you do nothing but stare at slide shows of all those pics, id be pumped


cant say i stare at them all day but i have them on my desktop so close enough...

The car is a RS so the brakes are the bigger ones, coilovers are cusco and they still sell them here so rebuild shouldnt be a problem.

Going for a temp permit for the car so i can get some street driving done when it gets here :p

[jesse_RE]

Nice Jase, cant wait to see it in action

[Hyperdrive3d]

just for previous info guys...

When impporting a "race only" vehicle, it doesnt matter if its personal or through a broker, the owner of the car has to have a CAMS licence, the importer does not... Im currently filling out all the stuff now so i know that for certain.

On the other hand, I have to wait tilll the 18th DEC till i get my car coz i missed the earlier ship by 2 days... :-(