PDA

View Full Version : excellent ignition lead information


capella re
30-05-2010, 03:47 PM
an interesting read on information all about the humble spark plug leads. from myths of high output spark enhancers to carbon brak down of internal lead components. quite informative if you can be assed reading it.

http://www.actproducts.co.uk/shop/images/magnecor-leads-sm.jpg

THE TRUTH ABOUT IGNITION WIRE CONDUCTORS

CARBON (SUPPRESSION) CONDUCTORS
Carbon conductors are used in original equipment ignition wires by most vehicle manufacturers, and in the majority of stock replacement wires. This style of ignition wire is cheap to manufacture and generally provides good suppression for both RFI (radio frequency interference) and EMI (electromagnetic interference). Conductor usually consists of a substrate of fiberglass and/or Kevlar over which high-resistance conductive latex or silicone is coated, and functions by reducing spark current (by resistance) to provide suppression — a job it does well while the conductor lasts. Vehicle manufacturers treat ignition wires as service items to be replaced regularly, and limited life is never an issue. This type of conductor quickly fails (burns out) if a high-powered aftermarket ignition system is used.

EMI (electromagnetic interference)

EMI from spark plug wires can cause erroneous signals to be sent to engine management systems and other on-board electronic devices used on both racing and production vehicles in the same manner as RFI (radio frequency interference) can cause unwanted signals to be heard on a radio receiver. Engine running problems ranging from intermittent misses to a dramatic loss of power can result when engine management computers receive signals from sensors that have been altered by EMI emitted from spark plug wires. This problem is most noticeable on modern production vehicles used for commuting where virtually every function of the vehicle's drive train is managed by a computer. For many reasons, the effect of EMI on engine management computers is never predicable, and problems do become worse on production vehicles as sensors, connectors and wiring deteriorate and corrosion occurs. The problem is often exacerbated by replacing the original ignition system with a high-output system.

SOLID CORE CONDUCTOR WIRES
Solid metal (copper, tin-plated copper and/or stainless steel) conductor wires are still used in racing on carbureted engines, but can cause all sorts of running problems if used on vehicles with electronic ignition, fuel injection and engine management systems, particularly if vehicle is driven on the street — and damage to some original equipment and modern aftermarket electronic ignition and engine management systems can occur. Solid metal conductor wires cannot be suppressed to overcome EMI or RFI without the addition of current-reducing resistors at both ends of wires.

"LOW-RESISTANCE" SPIRAL WIRES
By far the most popular conductor used in ignition wires destined for race and performance street engines are spiral conductors (a.k.a. mag, pro, super, spiral, monel, heli, energy, ferro, twin core etc.). Spiral conductors are constructed by winding fine wire around a core. Almost all manufacturers use constructions which reduce production costs in an endeavor to offer ignition component marketers and mass-merchandisers cheaper prices than those of their competitors.

In the USA in particular, most marketers of performance parts selling their products through mass-merchandisers and speed shops include a variety of very effective high-output ignition systems together with a branded not-so-effective ignition wire line using a spiral conductor. Most perpetually try to out-do their competitors by offering spiral conductor ignition wires with the lowest electrical resistance. Some publish results which show their wires are superior to a competitor's wires which use identical cable (on which another brand name is printed). The published "low" resistance (per foot) is measured with a test ohmmeter's 1 volt direct current (DC) passing through the entire length of the fine wire used for the spiral conductor.

"Low-resistance" conductors are an easy sell, as most people associate all ignition wire conductors with original equipment and replacement ignition wire carbon conductors (which progressively fail as a result of microscopic carbon granules burning away and thus reducing the spark energy to the spark plugs) and with solid wire zero-resistance conductors that were used by racers with no need for suppression. Consumers are easily led into believing that if a spiral conductor's resistance is almost zero, its performance must be similar to that of a solid metal conductor all race cars once used. HOWEVER, NOTHING IS FURTHER FROM THE TRUTH!

What is not generally understood (or is ignored) is that as a result of the laws of electricity, the potential 45,000 plus volts (with alternating current characteristics) from the ignition coil (a pulse type transformer) does not flow through the entire the length of fine wire used for a spiral conductor like the 1 volt DC voltage from a test ohmmeter, but flows in a magnetic field surrounding the outermost surface of the spiral windings (skin effect). The same skin effect applies equally to the same pulsating flow of current passing through carbon and solid metal conductors.

A spiral conductor with a low electrical resistance measured by an ohmmeter indicates, in reality, nothing other than less of the expensive fine wire is used for the conductor windings — a construction which cannot achieve a clean and efficient current flow through the magnetic field surrounding the windings, resulting in poor suppression for RFI and EMI.

Of course, ignition wire manufacturers save a considerable amount in manufacturing costs by using less fine wire, less exotic winding machinery and less expertise to make low-resistance spiral conductors. As an incentive, they find a lucrative market amongst performance parts marketers who advertise their branded ignition wires as having "low-resistance" conductors, despite the fact that such "low-resistance" contributes nothing to make spiral ignition wires perform better, and RFI and EMI suppression is compromised.

In recent years, most ignition wire manufacturers, to temporarily improve their spiral conductor's suppression, have resorted to coating excessively spaced spiral windings, most of which are crudely wound around strands of fiberglass or Kevlar, with a heavy layer of high-resistance carbon impregnated conductive latex or silicone compound. This type of construction hides the conductive coating's high resistance when the overall conductor is measured with a test ohmmeter, which only measures the lower resistance of the sparse spirally wound wire (the path of least resistance) under the conductive coating and ignores the high resistance of the outermost conductive coating in which the spark energy actually travels. The conductive coating is rarely shown or mentioned in advertisement illustrations.

The suppression achieved by this practice of coating the windings is only temporary, as the spark current is forced to travel through the outermost high-resistance conductive coating in the same manner the spark current travels through the outermost high-resistance conductive coating of a carbon conductor used in most original equipment and stock replacement wires.

In effect, (when new) a coated "low-resistance" spiral conductor's true performance is identical to that of a high-resistance carbon conductor.

Unfortunately, and particularly with the use of high-output ignitions, the outermost high-resistance conductive coating over spiral windings acting as the conductor will fail from burn out in the same manner as carbon conductors, and although in most cases, the spiral conductor will not cease to conduct like a high-resistance carbon conductor, any RFI or EMI suppression will be lost as a consequence of the coating burning out. The worst interference will come from the so-called "super conductors" that are wound with copper (alloy) wire.

However, despite the shortcomings of "low-resistance" spiral conductor ignition wires, these wires work satisfactorily on older production vehicles and race vehicles that do not rely on electronic engine management systems, or use on-board electronics effected by EMI — although with the lowest-resistance conductor wires, don't expect much RFI suppression on the AM band in poor reception areas.

Some Japanese and European original equipment and replacement ignition wires do have spiral conductors that provide good suppression, and usually none of these wires are promoted as having low-resistance conductors. However, some have proven unsuitable for competition use when used with high-output ignition systems, as their conductors and pin-type terminations can be fragile and may not last as long as conventional conductor fold-over terminations.

To be effective in carrying the full output from the ignition system and suppressing RFI and EMI in particular, spiral conductors need windings that are microscopically close to one another and precisely spaced and free from conductive coatings. To be more effective, the windings need to be wound over a core of magnetic material — a method too costly for wires sold through mass-merchandisers and most speed shops who purchase only the cheapest (to them) and most heavily promoted products.

Claims of Horsepower Gain

Every brand of spiral conductor ignition wires will perform the function of conducting coil output to the spark plugs, but NONE, despite the claims made in advertisements and other promotional literature, will increase horsepower. Independent tests, including a test performed by Circle Track Magazine (see May, 1996 issue) in the USA, show that NO "low-resistance" ignition wires for which a horsepower increase is claimed do in fact increase horsepower - the test also included comparisons with solid metal and carbon conductor ignition wires.

TWIN-CONDUCTOR WIRES
Despite the hype, nothing will be gained from wires which feature a twin conductor (SplitFire Twin Core wires) — although this is an excellent way to make a cheaply constructed low-resistance spiral conductor wire emit twice the EMI. The claim by SplitFire the additional core delivers "TWICE the ignition power of what used to be called 'high performance' wires!" (and more miles per gallon for consumers outside of the USA) is of no more use to consumers than the need for SplitFire's "safety of a second wire set — built in!" Any single spiral conductor (except those with pin-type terminations) will conduct all the coil current from any stock and most racing ignition systems reliably, and since the vast majority of any type conductor wires fail and/or burn away at the terminations, nothing will be gained by terminating "twin" conductors in the same terminal.

"CAPACITOR" EFFECT WIRES with grounded metal braiding over jacket
The most notable of exaggerated claims for ignition wires are made by Nology, a manufacturer of ignition wires promoted as "the only spark plug wires with built-in capacitor." Nology's "HotWires" (called "Plasma Leads" in the UK) consist of unsuppressed solid metal or spiral conductor ignition wires over which braided metal sleeves are partially fitted. The braided metal sleeves are grounded via straps formed from part of the braiding. Insulating covers are fitted over the braided metal sleeves. These wires are well constructed. For whatever reason, Nology specifies that non-resistor spark plugs need to be used with their "HotWires." In a demonstration, the use of resistor plugs with "HotWires" will nullify the visual effect of the brighter spark.

Ignition wires with grounded braided metal sleeves over the cable have come and gone all over the world for (at least) the last 30 years, and similar wires were used over 20 years ago by a few car makers to solve cross-firing problems on early fuel injected engines and RFI problems on fiberglass bodied cars — only to find other problems were created. The recent Circle Track Magazine (USA, May, 1996 issue) test showed Nology "HotWires" produced no additional horsepower (the test actually showed a 10 horsepower decrease when compared to stock carbon conductor wires).

The perceived effect a brighter spark, conducted by an ignition wire, encased or partially encased in a braided metal sleeve (shield) grounded to the engine, jumping across a huge free-air gap (which bears no relationship to the spark needed to fire the variable air/fuel mixture under pressure in a combustion chamber) is continually being re-discovered and cleverly demonstrated by marketers who convince themselves there's monetary value in such a bright spark, and all sorts of wild, completely un-provable claims are made for this phenomena.

Like many in the past, Nology cleverly demonstrates a brighter free-air spark containing useless flash-over created by the crude "capacitor" (effect) of this style of wire. In reality, the bright spark has no more useful energy to fire a variable compressed air/fuel mixture than the clean spark you would see in a similar demonstration using any good carbon conductor wire. What is happening in such a demonstration is the coil output is being unnecessarily boosted to additionally supply spark energy that is induced (and wasted) into the grounded braided metal sleeve around the ignition wire's jacket. To test the validity of this statement, ask the Nology demonstrator to disconnect the ground strap and observe just how much energy is sparking to ground.

Claims by Nology of their "HotWires" creating sparks that are "300 times more powerful," reaching temperatures of "100,000 to 150,000 degrees F" (more than enough to melt spark plug electrodes), spark durations of "4 billionths of a second" (spark duration is controlled by the ignition system itself) and currents of "1,000 amperes" magically evolving in "capacitors" allegedly "built-in" to the ignition wires are as ridiculous as the data and the depiction of sparks in photographs used in advertising material and the price asked for these wires! Most stock ignition primaries are regulated to 6 amperes and the most powerful race ignition to no more than 40 amperes at 12,000 RPM.

It is common knowledge amongst automotive electrical engineers that it is unwise to use ignition wires fitted with grounded braided metal sleeves fitted over ignition cable jackets on an automobile engine. This type of ignition wires forces its cable jackets to become an unsuitable dielectric for a crude capacitor (effect) between the conductor and the braided metal sleeves. While the wires function normally when first fitted, the cable jackets soon break down as a dielectric, and progressively more spark energy is induced from the conductors (though the cable jackets) into the grounded metal sleeves, causing the ignition coil to unnecessarily output more energy to fire both the spark plug gaps and the additional energy lost via the braided metal sleeves. Often this situation leads to ignition coil and control unit overload failures. It should be noted that it is dangerous to use this style of wires if not grounded to the engine with grounding straps, as the outside of the braided cables will be alive with thousands of volts wanting to ground-out to anything (or anybody) nearby.

Unless you are prepared to accept poorly suppressed ignition wires that fail sooner than any other type of ignition wires and stretch your ignition system to the limit, and have an engine with no electronic management system and/or exhaust emission controls, it's best not to be influenced by the exaggerated claims, and some vested-interest journalists', resellers' and installers' perception an engine has more power after Nology wires are fitted. Often, after replacing deteriorated wires, any new ignition wires make an engine run better.

OTHER DEVICES CLAIMING TO INCREASE SPARKS:
Never be fooled by any device that is fitted between the ignition coil and the distributor, and/or distributor and the spark plugs (sometimes in place of ignition wires) for which claims of increased power, multiple sparks, and better fuel economy are made. These devices have come and gone over the last 50 years, and usually consists of a sealed container in which the spark is forced to jump an additional gap or is partially induced to ground on its way to the spark plug gap. These devices can also be cleverly demonstrated to produce sparks the human eye perceives as being "more powerful." The only "increase" a gullible consumer can expect from these devices is an undesirable increase in load on their vehicle's ignition system.

SUMMING UP
All internal combustion engines rely on an ignition system — and an engine that is required to produce more horsepower and needs to operate at higher-than-production-engine RPM needs a more powerful ignition system to achieve the extra horsepower and higher RPM.

Original (stock) equipment inductive ignition systems with distributors, and direct ignition systems that eliminate the distributor by controlling the ignition system with a computer, are designed to output spark energy moderately in excess of what is needed to fire spark plug gaps under normal operating conditions, and to control timing and spark duration to improve the engine's ability to control exhaust emissions, as well as ensuring the engine is not overstressed during the vehicle's warranty period.

Capacitor discharge ignitions (CDI) such as those from Accel, Crane, Holley, Jacobs, Mallory, MSD and others create sparks that are compressed (and intensified) into shorter duration and are designed to additionally produce the extra spark energy needed by race and modified street engines that will reach higher RPM than stock engines and use fuels more difficult to fire than pump gasoline (petrol). Most CDI ignitions incorporate multi-spark circuits to enable the engine to run smoother under 3,000 RPM.

A High-output inductive ignition system is probably more appropriate than a CDI ignition system for most late model production engines (modified or not) because this type of ignition provides the longer duration spark needed by these engines. Basic high-output inductive ignition systems are currently available in the aftermarket from at least Accel, Crane, Holley, MSD, and a menu driven direct ignition system is a available from Electromotive.

Often, on production vehicles used on the street, replacing a tired ignition coil with a higher-output ignition coil from Accel, Crane, Jacobs, Mallory, Moroso, MSD, Nology, etc, can improve ignition performance, particularly under load and at higher RPM.

Electrical devices, including SPARK PLUGS, use only the electrical energy necessary to perform the function for which such devices are designed. IGNITION WIRES are nothing other than conductors, and whereas an ignition wire's inefficient or failing conductor or insulating jacket (particularly a jacket inside grounded metal shielding) can reduce the flow of electricity to the spark plug, an ignition wire that allegedly generates an "increase" in spark energy will have no effect on the spark jumping across the spark plug gap, as the energy consumed at the spark plug gap won't be any more than what is needed to jump the gap (e.g. a 25 watt light bulb won't use any more energy or produce any more light if it's screwed into a socket wired to supply current to a 100,000 watt light bulb).

Although most new ignition wires will perform the function of conducting coil output to the spark plug, what is important to sophisticated race engine preparers and owners of production vehicles with exhaust emission controls is EMI suppression. All electronic devices can be effected by EMI emitted from ignition wires, and the problem is often exacerbated by installing a high-output ignition system. As production vehicles age, engine management sensors and wiring deteriorate and become more susceptible to EMI radiating from improperly suppressed ignition wires. To be truly effective, ignition wires need to be EMI suppressed for a reasonable time, while having the ability to maintain good conductance without overloading other ignition system components.

Engine tuners should also take into account that most stock engines and some hi-tech aftermarket engine management systems use resistance in ignition wires to sense additional information needed by the computer.

capella re
30-05-2010, 03:49 PM
What are the most common problems with ignition wires ?

http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/images/gallery-1-large.jpg

http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/images/gallery-3-large.jpg

Common causes of ignition wire failure that are eliminated by using Magnecor ignition wires are:

* Carbon conductors wearing out and burning back in original equipment and aftermarket wires;
* Spiral conductors burning back from pin-type terminations in European and Japanese original equipment and aftermarket wires;
* Spiral conductors burning back from core-crimp (also know as "dual crimp") terminals not properly terminated;
* Resistor-connectors burning out in German original equipment and aftermarket wires;
* Insulation jacket breakdown under braided metal sleeves fitted to so-called "built-in capacitor" wires.

Additional common causes of ignition wire failure that include Magnecor ignition wires are:

IGNITION WIRES NOT PROPERLY FITTED:
No proper engagement of the spark plug, distributor, and coil terminals — the most common installation problem. This problem is not always immediately noticeable when using Magnecor Race Wires, because the high capacity conductors do not reduce spark energy like carbon conductors. In most cases, if an engine misfire does become noticeable, and the ignition wires are determined to be the cause, the problem can be simply solved by ensuring connectors are properly engaged. Often, by looking into the spark plug end, a black substance will appear on a normally shiny terminal if it has not been engaging the spark plug top properly for some time, and a white substance (from arcing) will appear on the inside of the boot/connector if the boot/connector is about to fall off the spark plug. Fitting instructions are always included in Magnecor ignition wire set packages, together with additional instructions for engines with a history of ignition wire failures due to the difficulty of installation, other causes including moisture accumulating in deep spark plug holes and spark plug problems.

IGNITION WIRES NOT REMOVED PROPERLY :
Any ignition wire can be damaged if care is not taken when removing it from a spark plug or distributor/coil. The most common damage to an ignition wire occurs when the ignition cable is wrenched out of a spark plug terminal locked onto a spark plug top. Generally, it's in the best interest of every ignition wire manufacturer to make every effort to ensure the terminals are crimped onto the cable as tightly as possible. Magnecor wires even come with a variety of terminals that are designed for specific applications to help overcome the problem of terminals locking onto spark plug tops, but all too often, someone still manages to wrench the cable from a terminal locked onto a spark plug top.

Keep in mind, the longer the spark plug wires have been attached to the spark plugs, the more careful you will have to be when removing them.

Experienced auto technicians rarely damage spark plug wires during the removal process, but the DIY'ers regularly damage wires because of inexperience and lack of know-how, particularly if they have never removed wires from spark plugs before. The first thing to remember is that unless it's an emergency, NEVER REMOVE IGNITION WIRES UNTIL THE ENGINE IS COLD, as hot spark plug tops will expand and lock into the terminals inside the wires' spark plug connectors. Always try to pull a wire's spark plug connector straight off the spark plug, and not at an angle, as the connector's metal terminal can bite into, and lock onto the spark plug top, particularly if the spark plug has a soft metal top. Do not rock rubber boot and terminal combinations to free the terminal from the spark plug top, as the mouth of the metal terminal inside the boot can be spread if enough force is used, and thereafter, the terminal will be loose on the spark plug top. On engines with extended spark plug connectors to reach spark plugs down deep holes, always remove the wire's cable from retaining/separator clips before pulling on the spark plug connector, as failing to do so can cause the connector to be angled over when being pulled from the spark plug. The same care should be taken when removing distributor/coil connectors. NEVER PULL ON THE WIRE'S CABLE.

SPARK PLUG CAUSED PROBLEMS:
Combustion gases leaking past spark plug gaskets and spark plug porcelain seals (and cracks) can cause wire boots and connectors to pop of spark plugs. Also, the opposite can occur if, over time, a small amount of corrosive combustion gas continues to leak from around the very top of a spark plug porcelain to cause a galvanic action, which binds the spark plug wire's metal terminal to the spark plug top, and if enough force is used, the cable can be wrenched out of the terminal in an endeavor to remove the spark plug boot/connector. Small size spark plugs are prone to this problem in turbocharged and supercharged engines.

IMPORTANT: It is good practice to let any engine cool before spark plug boot/connectors are pulled off the spark plugs, as often, when engine is hot, certain spark plug tops will expand more than the stainless steel terminals inside the boot/connectors. Whenever a spark plug top expands (and locks) inside a terminal, any attempt to forcefully remove the wire connector from the spark plug will usually result in the cable being wrenched out of the terminal, with the terminal remaining locked to the spark plug top. Unfortunately, silicone rubber will never be as strong as stainless steel.

MOISTURE AND OTHER PROBLEMS WITH DEEP SET SPARK PLUGS:
Extended multi-part plastic spark plug connectors used mostly on Japanese engine ignition wires can be terminally damaged by arcing over the plastic extension tube of any connector whenever moisture accumulates in the spark plug hole. This style of connectors can also be pulled apart if pulled to one side and brute force is used to remove them. A surprising number of owners and installers attempt to remove extended connectors from the spark plugs without first unclipping the wires from retainer/dividers, a practice which inevitably causes connectors to be pulled up at an angle.

Some spark plugs have oversized soft metal tops that work well with the loose-fitting light gauge terminals used on some Japanese original equipment wires, but care needs to be taken when removing Magnecor Race Wires with heavy duty stainless steel terminals (needed for high-output race ignitions) that can be locked onto soft spark plug tops if connectors are not pulled straight up, and deep scouring of the spark plug top occurs. Also, some extended connectors contain an original style terminal which can be unlocked inside the plastic tube if a connector is twisted (for removal) in an attempt to free a terminal locked onto a spark plug top. Again, always wait until engine cools before removing spark plug connectors.

Excessive oil from leaking valve cover draining into spark plug holes and filling up to the bottom seals of extended multi-part plastic spark plug connectors can cause the bottom seals to un-glue themselves from the plastic extension tubes when the connectors are removed. The only real cure for this problem is to replace the leaking valve cover gaskets. Generally, if there is no crazed arcing tracks over the plastic extension tubes, the oil-soaked connectors can be re-used if you are able to re-glue (with RTV silicone adhesive) the detached seals to the end of the plastic extension tubes after the seals and tubes have been thoroughly cleaned with grease removing cleaner (do not soak them in a solvent), and as much as possible of the old RTV is removed. You can also send for new seals if the detached seals are too swollen. Alternatively, you can send the wires to Magnecor for new seals to be re-glued onto the extension tubes — please leave it to us to clean off the oil. Evidence of leaking oil is usually obvious on the spark plug connectors - as this picture demonstrates.

THE MISUSE OF SILICONE DI-ELECTRIC GREASE:
Too much silicone dielectric grease placed inside extended multi-part plastic spark plug connectors can cause them to pop off spark plugs or disconnect from the spark plug top without popping off the spark plug . This problem can also occur if too much grease is stuffed into flexible rubber boot connectors. Only occasionally will a flexible rubber boot connector completely pop off the spark plug, but if the terminal inside is swamped in dielectric (insulating) grease, it won't properly engage the spark plug top, and misfiring will occur.

All too often, when wires are sent to us for evaluation (particularly on engines notorious for moisture accumulation in spark plug holes) we see far too much grease stuffed into the spark plug connectors. Always keep in mind that grease cannot be compressed, and there's no room in a spark plug connector for too much grease and the spark plug as well. Only a film of grease should to be applied at the mouth of a multi-part plastic connectors' bottom seal or at the base of the spark plug's insulator to help prevent moisture seepage. Unfortunately, the heat from the spark plug porcelain will eventually cause the grease to seep out of the seals, so it needs to be applied on a regular basis it your vehicle is driven in the rain for long periods of time or you live in an area (such as near the sea) where condensation accumulates all over the engine without it raining.

It is important that only silicone dielectric grease is used for this purpose, as other greases can become conductive. Realistically, it's better not to use silicone grease at all in spark plug connectors unless you know there is a moisture problem with your engine.

If your engine develops a misfire after you have put grease into the spark plug connectors, remove the connectors and look into each connector's mouth. If any metal terminal inside a connector has grease in it, remove it as best you can with a cotton Q-Tip swab if you don't want to replace the wire. It is better not to attempt to wash it out with a solvent, unless you know for sure that the solvent won't harm the connector materials.

EXCESSIVE HEAT PROBLEMS:
Fitting spark plug boots too close to 1,500 degrees F (815 degrees C) plus headers (exhaust manifolds, extractors) and turbocharger plumbing is another problem encountered on modified production engines. Some header aftermarket designs make it impossible to fit spark plug wires without the spark plug boot touching the header. Currently, the best silicone rubber spark plug boots are limited to 600 degrees F (316 degrees C), and ceramic boots don't really help because they need to use rubber seals to prevent arcing. Various fiberglass covers can help, but in extreme situations where there is little or no airflow, the fiberglass can almost reach the temperature of the heat source, and for this reason, tight fitting fiberglass sleeves over the cable jacket are virtually useless for heat protection.

Recently, spark plug boots onto which a mildly reflective metallic coating is applied have been promoted as being able to withstand up to 1,000 degrees F (538 degrees C), and although this figure is an exaggeration, these boots will certainly tolerate more heat. The downside is the boot's coating is conductive, and during our evaluation of whether or not to use these boots on our wires, we discovered there will be times when the spark energy finds it easier to induce itself into the boot's coating (and ground out to the spark plug base) than to fire a spark plug with a wide gap (electrode gap deliberately widened or worn away) — causing the engine to misfire.

Our customers have reported that loose-fitting highly reflective coated fiberglass sleeves slid over spark plug boots can help in some cases. Thick loose fitting fire sleeve fitted over the spark plug wires are very effective on race engines, but generally it's bulk makes it impractical for use on a street engine (and unsightly on a well presented street car engine). By far the best solution for heat related problems with all engine wiring is to shield, wrap or coat the heat source itself, and to introduce more airflow around where the spark plug wires are located.

Most parts used to make Magnecor Race Wires are available as spare parts. Excessive-heat damaged boots can be replaced at our plant or ordered as separate items. Wherever possible, Magnecor Race Wire sets for certain engines will include modifications to original design of the spark plug wires to help overcome the problems caused by poor original wire and/or engine design.

BATTERY ACID can can attack ignition wires if it's allowed to remain on wires, boots and/or connectors. If, for any reason battery acid finds it way onto the ignition wires (usually as a result of a collision or battery removal or explosion), the wires should be immediately washed down with at water, preferably combined with baking soda (to kill the acid). Also, battery acid will attack skin and clothing.

SPARK PLUGS NEED REPLACING:

Over the years, we have never ceased to be amazed how many people blame problems caused by spark plugs on the ignition wires. Ignition wires are nothing other than conductors of spark energy, and if the spark plug gaps are eroded or set too large, or a spark plug itself is defective for a variety of reasons, the energy conducted will be wasted. No spark plug lasts forever, and rarely, does any spark plug last as long as advertised, particularly if you want your engine to perform satisfactorily. Sometimes, spark plug problems can be disguised and postponed with stock wires, which provide suppression by reducing spark energy to the plugs, and sometimes spark plug problems can be made worse by Magnecor KV85 and R-100 Race wires designed to provide suppression without reducing spark energy from the coil (more so, with high-output ignitions). Unfortunately, all engines lose power if any or all spark plugs are not performing satisfactorily, no matter what ignition system or spark plug wires are used.